2009 Ford F150 Fuel Pump Driver Module Location
We had a problem a month ago where it would crank and not start. After some trouble shooting we found a bad connection on the fuel pump fuse and installed a new fuse and things worked fine. A couple days ago it happened again, we checked the fuse it was good replaced the relay still cranks no start.
Replaced both the fuel pump driver module and fuel pump still wont start. We hear the pump run for a couple seconds then shuts off.
I have not checked fuel pressure on the fuel rail yet hoping to see if there might be something else to look at as well. I have sprayed starter fluid into air intake and engine will fire so pretty sure its not getting fuel.
Sound like it is a new fuel pump, and it does prime up...and the motor will run with starting fluid for a bit. Yes I would check fuel pump pressure and do a bleed down test to see if it holds pressure, I don't know what the pressure should be on a Ford, but the pressure should not drop more that 5lbs and hold for at least 3 to 5 min. If not there would be a leak to investigate.
Jul 6, 2015 - 3 min - Uploaded by BullshitkornerNeed a fuel pump Module? This is a super easy job that anyone can do. Dec 18, 2012 Watch as this ACDelco product specialist offers some diagnostic tips for a fuel pump that isn't running. Every part in ACDelco's fuel pump line is covered.
Thanks yes new fuel pump........ my plan after work tomorrow is to get a pressure gauge and check pressureI've been reading about an inertia switch but apparently Ford may have done away with them after 2009 I've looked all over and cant find one on mine even behind the kick panel.
I have a similar problem on my 2009 F-150. Changed the whole sending unit with the fuel pump with a OEM motorcraft, changed the fuel pump module. It will stall out after a long drive or after I shut it off it won't restart until it cools off for at least a half hour. Please let me know if you figureed yours out.
rsilmi925, in your case, it sounds to me like you have an ignition problem. I am not familiar with Ford that well, but in most cases what you describe is contributed to the ignition control module. When they start to go bad, heat affects them to the point that you need to cool the motor down in order for it to function again. The ignition system components on yours is where I would start looking.
Had this problem and took to three different auto shops. Tried numerous things and I finally after reading some of the answers listed here went and checked the fuse. Sure enough the fuse was fried on one side but still making enough connection to run poorly. Replaced the fuse and now runs and starts great.
Unreal, simple fix, glad you gotter.
I am so happy to find this discussion thread this morning.I went out to head off to work and my truck wouldn't start up. It would try to start, but it just wouldn't fire up. After looking it over, the fuel pump wasn't working. Priced those and was looking at $330 part. Saw this thread, and checked out the fuse. It was fired. Pulled and replaced the fuse and she fired right up. Definitely a quicker and cheaper fix than I thought we would be looking at.Thanks!
I had the stalling issue. It is the fuel control module. But my mechanic said ford recommended a replacement upgrade joy for the circuit. Evidently the circuit was undersized and a new connector, bigger wire, new module and fuse is required. I was quotes $500 to fix it. Parts were 100 for the module, 100 for the connector and lot and 200 for labor and diagnostics.
I am currently in the middle of this mess with a 2009 F150 XLT 4.6L, so far I have replaced the fuel pump which did allow the truck to start but now it is having a hard time starting and acting like it is starving for fuel while accelerating. Plugs have also been replaced and just ordered a new module. I checked the relays and swapped them out looked at the fuses and didn't see a problem there hopefully it is the control module because I don't want to drop that tank again for another fuel pump. One thing I did find interesting was after replacing the fuel pump it still wouldn't start until I reset the computer using a Modis edge diagnostic system.
Had same problem with my 2010 f150. Ford has a recommended upgrade. New type of FPCM with new connector and larger fuse. Cost me $500 at the local garage.
New one online was $59 with shipping should be here late next week hopefully fixes the issue.
Glad I found this thread. I've had intermittent start issues for past 8 months. It finally wouldn't start at all (while on Vacation... of course). Checked the fuse and it was fried. Replaced and started right up.
this to Emthompson i have the same problem with my truck you had did you ever find out what the problem was to fix it
It ended up being the #27 fuel pump fuse being melted causing intermittent power to the fuel pump. I replaced it with a 30amp fues and haven't had a problem in almost a year. Simple fix.
Not yet I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel pump module, checked fuses, checked new fuel pumps pressure seems fine. I'm running codes now P0171 & P0174. Cleaned and checked the MAF sensor seems to be responding normally. When hooked up the back side of the motor seems to be running very lean fuel mileage has dropped about 40% and now runs rough and has rough starts.
Had same trouble with not starting but would turn over. Towed it home and it would start then. Wrecker guy said fuel pump was bad intermitantly. Checked pump module and looked ok so we changedfuel pump. Started up once then wouldnt start. Read answers here and found fuse#27 burnt. Still not blown but burnt. Changed it out and all is good, thanks to this site. $300 fuse!HA
I just had this happen to my 2010 F150 5.4L. The #27 fuse was fine. The fuel pump module was fine. It would crank and start, then it would immediately die. No check engine light came up, just the Oil Pressure light followed by a brief alarm. I disconnected the negative battery cable. Turned the ignition to the 'ON' position and left it there. Then reconnected the negative battery cable. Turned the key back to the 'OFF' position and then started it. It cranked up and stayed on. I have a check engine light now so I'll go see what that is and deal with that. But this should at least get you moving again so you can get to safety.
I had EXACT SAME ISSUES this morning and tried to do what you said. No luck. So checked fuses under hood of my 2010 and for whatever reason, pulled #43 (was burned up) left that fuse out of it's slot and truck started right up. Crazy it would start by pulling that particular fuse as it was for back up lamp relay.
Yes, fuse socket has melted. It is physically too small. There are empty sockets of lager fuses use one of them. Be sure to use the same value fuse.
Thanks for this thread. I have been having trouble occasionally my car will crank but not start. 2010 Ford F150 Lariat. I checked the fuse and it was burnt.
Thanks to all on this thread for the insight on fuse #27. I have replaced with another 20 amp fuse for now, but I'm curious as to what might cause this 'melting' of the fuse. My experience tells me some other undesirable condition is causing this and just changing the fuse is a temporary solution. I find it hard to comprehend that the physical size of the fuse could be to small as it has worked without issue for 9 years. Attached is my photo of very similar fuse failure. Same symptoms, would crank over but not start (starter keeps running for ten seconds due to OTIS system).
Thabks for the info about fuse 27. Saved me some serious money checking it before the fuel pump. Fot replaced at a shop. Started righr up and has been fine since replacement
2009 F-150 turns over but no start, let it sit for a while and it would start. Then it stalled while driving. Checked #27 fuse and just as others said it was burnt on one side. Replaced fuse and so far so good.
Well,I replaced our fuse #27 and it was pretty burnt and it was enough to drive it back to our facility. After that it wouldn't start again. Looking into with a few mechanics it sounds as if the fuse is physically too small and the 20amp circuit should be using a physically larger 20amp fuse to conduct the current. A mini-fuse should not fail in this fashion and we suspect to be a Ford design issue. There are no other 20amp fuses this size in this vehicle. I have not yet looked into the fuel pump connection, but I'm expecting this also to be our culprit of what actually caused this to burn in the first place.
I guess this video Anwser most of the questions on this blog https://youtu.be/ZhwOCpR55FE
Fuse #27 doesn’t have enough contact area so it gets hot . Ford has a relocation kit for $20 , it comes with good instructions . They should recall this but Ford don’t recall crap
to emthompson please update us what the problem was thanks
Had issues with same aa thread. took my 2010 into shop ford dealerships. Back and now hard start. Took it back told them I think its the fuel pump (they only replaced the sensing unit the 1st time) since I know longer hear the fuel pump prime. Total work cost over $25001st of all don't tell them what you think it is they call bs on you. 2nd the ford dealership in Watertown Wis will never get my money on my next truck. Anyways My truck is hard start after 3hr of sitting.What fuse are you referring too? (Need to pick up a book on it just have not had timelyAny help would be appreciated since Ford repair shop can't fix it
I have a 2006 f150 with 4.6l v8 I just replaced the old fuel pump, I unplugged the battery from the truck, dropped the tank, replaced the fuel pump, put it all back together and nothing. It cranks fine the fuse is good and I even hit the reset switch on the fuel shut off switch by the fuse panel.I turn the truck on but hear no noise from the pump, everything is plugged in nice and snug. I'm really confused
My 2010 f150 just shut off and wouldn't start, the truck would keep trying to start for 10 seconds after I let off the key, read this thread and looked at the fuses and Bam!! #27 fuel pump relay fuse was fried! Had to pry it out. Changed fuse and it started right up
I replaced my #27 fuel pump fuse with a 30 amp and have not had the melting condition since. Been over 2 years now with no issues. The 30 amp fuse contacts are thicker thus able to handle the current better without melting.
Had the same thing happen. Good Job EVERYBODY!!! Got the Fuse put it in and Woola!!
Couldn't belive it......20 amp fuse WAS smoked!!! Thanks everyone.....quick trip to the parts store and stocked on on emergency fuses. #27 under hood replaced and fired up immediately. A little background in case others have the same issue. August 2018, tried to start one morning, and would turn over, but no ignition. Starter runs for about 10 seconds. Came back in afternoon and started up. No issues until 11/25/18. After about 75 mins of driving, engine started to shutter when in park. Was very sudden, and had never happened before. Gave it a little gas, and issue went away. Fast forward to today (1/27/18). Drove around this morning, running errands. Returned home and parked. 1 hr later wife went to start truck, with no success. Stumbled upon this thread and so glad I did!! Piecing together all the issues, since this summer, now clear it was working towards burning out the fuse. 2010 F150 5.4L XLT.
Just had the same issue in my 2010 F-150 5.4 Lariat. No starting issue until today, the starter would run for 10 seconds but no ignition. Found this thread, found my #27 fuse fried, changed it with the #45 20amp (trailer lights) to get her running and up to the parts store. Thank y’all for this thread.
Same issue, stumble start then no start. Intermittent start stall. 2011 f150 103k. Fuse fried! #27 under hood. Replaced and started right up.
I have a 2006 Ford F-150 with a 4.6. I am having a crank no start issue. I have changed fuel filter, fuel pump, checked pressure, checked fuses, checked relays, changed cam sensor, checked driver module, and am about to pull my hair out( what little I have left) . The truck will start with ether but will not stay running or crank with just fuel. Please let me know if anyone has heard of a similar issue
I have a 2012 Ford F-150 2WD XLT 3.7: 110k miles Supercab and my truck wouldn't start. It would crank but would't start. Called the Tow took it to Firestone, Ubered to work and within 15 minutes they said it was a bad Fuel Fuse relay.$500.00m but I will continue to monitor. Maybe get some Lucus gas cleaner as well to top off the vehicle. No more going below 25 miles to e for me. Fuel pump might go bad but I have a mechanic friend who can help me out on that one. Might get prepared now and order the damn thing ahead of time.
I had the same issue and replaced #27 fuse and seems to be working just fine. Ford needs to look into this issue and have a recall. Seems to me like everyone has the same problem. I also ordered a fuel pump online and a changed out my module.
Got in touch with Ford and they told me that the #27 fuse needs to be relocated. They informed me that they sell a FUSE RELOCATION KIT. It seems to be melting the fuse in the distribution panel. They also said not to put a bigger fuse size in it.
Were is the fuse located?
https://youtu.be/1N9zGdscsTI
https://youtu.be/iYpaDhtaVsk
Yeah I hope some sees this soon but I replaced that #27 fuse it was completely fried but still not turn over
I had the same problem with my 2009 f150 and it almost caused me to have a wreck!! My truck just stopped with no warning in the middle of a very busy street during rush hour and I almost got rear ended!!n Recall this issue FORD, before someone gets hurt!!!!!!
2009 Ford F150 Fuel Pump Driver Module Location
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